sailhandout

Basic and Intermediate Sailing

Welcome to the Sailing program at Cal Adventures. Everybody seems to have a different reason for taking sailing classes. Some wish to buy a boat. Others want to feel more comfortable sailing with people who already own boats. Some have seen people sailing on the Bay and want to discover what they have been missing. While others are simply looking to polish their rusty skills. Whatever your reason, we are pleased you chose Cal Adventures.

In the Basic class we begin with the fundamentals. We assume that every student knows absolutely nothing about sailing. However, we move at a fairly fast pace. You learn everything from safe launching and rigging to capsizing and safe docking. We also include basic seamanship skills like knot tying and boat care. Additionally, Basic Sailing introduces you to the language of sailing. Most of the terms your instructors will use are defined in this text. Since these terms and skills are new to most students, do not hesitate to ask any questions at any time. Also, if at any time you require more attention, please let us know. We will do our best to ensure that your experiences in this class are as enjoyable as possible.

The Intermediate class picks-up where the Basic class leaves off. Its goal is to help sailing students achieve the level of skill and self-confidence necessary to sail independently with guests in the demanding conditions of San Francisco Bay. The emphasis is on safety, adapting the skills learned in the basic class to the higher afternoon winds, and developing sailing judgment and a greater awareness of one's surroundings while on the water.

A couple of important items: 1) Always bring a change of clothes. The day you forget your extra clothes is the day you get wet. 2) If you expect that class may be canceled due to extreme weather conditions etc., please call the information line before venturing to the marina. You will hear a recording. No message can be left. The number is:

(510) 642-7707

Please hold on to this hand out and refer to it from time to time. It will be helpful if you decide to continue sailing with Cal Adventures. You may even find yourself digging this text out of your closet some day to review your knowledge of sailing terms. Good luck with the class and Happy Sailing!
THE FOLLOWING ARE OUTLINES OF TOPICS TO BE COVERED IN ORDER OF PRESENTATION.

BASIC SAILING 4 DAYS 3.5 HOURS PER DAY

Sailing Program Goals:
1. Introduction to sailing
2. Opportunities to build upon a solid foundation
3. To be skilled enough to rent safely
4. Introduction to racing and skills
5. Train and develop new staff
6. Knowledge and respect for the aquatic and Bay environment
7. Cultivate confidence…sailing…life?
8. Have fun!

Basic Sailing Course Goals:
1. Instill passion for sailing and new experiences
2. Positive experience
3. Skills (Basic)
_ steering   _ Right of Way _ trim
_ tacking _ capsize   _ points of sail
_ jibing _ knots   _ docking
_ rigging _ balance   _ launching
4. Desire to continue with program

Day 1 (with Coronado 15's)
1. Introduction
a. goals of the course
b. goals / skills of the class:
1. launch
2. rig
3. steer
4. tack
c. instill idea of processing / debriefing at end of class
2. Yard Tour
3. Launch
4. Rigging
a. parts of boat (continually as you rig / natural progression)
b. knots (continually as you rig / natural progression)
5. Break 5-10 min
6. Instructor tack demo
7. Students practice tacking on the dock > off dock
squatting / standing tack position preferred

8. Figure 8 for " buoy pong" - no jib
9. Start/Stop (safety position)
10. Processing / Debriefing

Day 2 (with Coronado 15's)
1. Goals / Skills:
a. tack with jib
b. start / stop............ safety position
c. capsize
2. Launch (prior to class)
3. Buoy Pong without jib (for those students who launched/rigged prior to class )
4. Rig jib at the dock
5. Tacking demo (on the water, close to dock)
? sheet / tiller for skipper
? JIFL for both skipper and crew
? balance
? skipper / crew responsibilities
start / stop
incorporate starboard over port rule

6. Buoy Pong and start/ stop on water drill
7. Break
8. Capsize demo tied up at dock
9. Buoy pong
10. Capsizes ( if rough conditions, capsize one at a time)
11. Processing / Debrief

Day 3 (with JYs and Coronados if necessary)
1. Goals / Skills:
a. jibing
b. docking
2. Launch
3. Buoy pong with jib ( prior to start of class)
4. Jibe demo at dock and on the water
? set up
? kneel in center of boat
? let go of main sheet
? watch jib collapse, not luff
? (crew needs to ease jib sheet, not harden)
? switch hands on tiller
? throw main sheet (falls) to other side (don't forget to let go)
5. Reaching triangle
? incorporate leeward over windward rule
? have students practice safety position for upcoming docking drill
6. Break
7. Docking demo
? approach on close reach; same as start/stop position
? grab main sheets (like jibing) to power up, let go to slow
? don't let the boat stop, or it will slide sideways
? have crew walk fore-deck with bow line 1.5 boat lengths from dock
? watch tide line for centerboard depth
? abort if too fast or not enough dock space by tacking or jibing
8. Docking drill
9. Process / Debrief
? same as previous days
? introduce Points of Sail

Day 4 (with JYs and Coronados if necessary)
1. Launch
2. Reaching Triangle (prior to class)
3. Lecture
? points of sail (if not covered in previous class)
? review all skills covered in course
4. Docking drill (again)
5. Break
6. Cruise
7. BBQ

INTERMEDIATE SAILING 4 DAYS, 3.5 HOURS PER DAY

CLASS OUTLINE This outline is a guide to the topics covered in the Cal Adventures Intermediate Sailing class, not a rigid protocol. The structure may be modified to accommodate weather conditions and class desires.

Course Goals:
Safety
Control
Care of self, crew, and equipment

Overall Emphasis:
To cultivate skippering skills through course goals

Day 1 (with Coronados)
Introduction
goals of the course
assessing the following skills will be the emphasis of today's class:
? docking
? tacking
? jibing

NOTE #1: These skills should be fairly solid in order to continue Intermediate Sail class. These are minimum expectations.

NOTE #2: Options for the student who doesn't meet the minimal expectations for this course are:
Take intermediate prep
Take a private lesson
Invite them back to future Intermediate after they have done the above options.
** Their money will be reimbursed or credited for those options.

Demo all of today's skills on the dock
Buoy pong for tack/jibe drills
Add another buoy for reaching triangle to hone steering and start / stop skills
Docking
Break
De-Rig
? jib flake
? main roll, wrap with main sheet, put cover on
? main and jib halyard: bowline, wrap around shroud, cleat off
? rudder and centerboard up
? boat pulling process
? Process / Debrief
? encourage students to come early (1/2 hour) in order to rig and sail prior to class starting.

Day 2 (with Coronados)
? Goals / Skills:
? upwind
? capsize
? reef at the dock
? Close-hauled briefing
? why we do it
? importance of hiking out
? introduce tell tails
? Capsize demo at dock
? Olympic triangle
? Break
? Demo reef at the dock
? Students capsize
? Debrief and pull boats

Day 3 (with JYs and Coronados if necessary)
? Goals / skills of the day
? heave-to
? reef
? crew overboard
? COB lecture / drawing
? COB demo
? beam - tack (chicken jibe) - broad - close
? approaching on close reach is like safety and docking position
? approach on leeward side of COB
? pull COB into boat over transom by PFD collar
? Heave-to demo
? Olympic triangle
? Have one boat at a time demo COB recovery and heave-to.
? Debrief COB at the dock
? Break
? Reef underway
? 10 Debrief/Process
? hypothermia
? seamanship = preparedness ........."prior planning and practice prevents poor performance"
? pull boats

Day 4 (with JYs and Coronados if necessary)

1.Review
? Q's & A's
? go through all new skills acquired

2. Racing
? no collisions allowed
? give strategy advice
? review right of way
? instructor(s) should also be racing

Cruising
? to Emeryville?? new docking situation there and calm waters..... watch for other boats entering and exiting harbor.

4.BBQ'ing

Proper Boat Care
Proper respect for your boat is a basic principle of sailing. By developing and practicing good habits with our fleet of C-15's, you will lay a good foundation for that time when you will own your own boat. Here is a review of the sequence of events for launching, getting underway and then putting the boat away.

A. Launching
1. Remove and fold sail cover. Put cover in cubby hole in the container.
2. Attach lifting sling.
3. Make sure that the hoist is properly aligned and attach the hook to the lifting sling.
4. Put in the plug(s).
5. Hoist the boat into the water and tie the boat to the dock.
6. Enter the boat carefully, by walking on center of foredeck, and disconnect the lifting sling.
7. Return the sling and trailer to the yard.
8. Rig the boat and go sailing.

B. Rigging
1. Make sure the boat is on the leeward side of the dock and facing into the wind.
2. Stabilize the boat by lowering the center board and installing the rudder.
3. Tie the aft end of the halyard to the head of the mainsail using a bowline.
4. Slacken the mainsheet and boom vang.
5. Hoist the mainsail until it reaches the very top of the mast, and secure the halyard.
6. Unroll a jib onto the fore deck and attach the tack, hanks, and jib sheets in that order.
7. Attach the jib halyard to the head of the jib and hoist the sail making sure to get proper tension by using the block in the halyard to gain extra purchase.
8. Snug-up the boom vang.

C. Putting Boats Away
1. Lower jib, then main and secure halyard(s).
2. Roll up main. Flake jib.
3. Attach lifting sling and pull boat out of the water.
4. Pull the plug.
5. Hose the boat off thoroughly and return to proper yard space.
6. Put sail cover on the main sail.
7. Return flaked jib to proper place.

Key Concepts

A. Sailing Attitude and Etiquette
This topic is of great importance to us so that our students are instilled with a courteous attitude around boats and other sailors. The following are a few suggestions:
? Help out others with rigging or whatever. You will surely be helping yourself with the increased practice.
? Make sure that all equipment is properly stowed before going home.
? On the water, know your rights, but do not push them on others. In other words try to avoid situations that could result in a collision.
? Never butt in line to pull your boat out of the water before someone else.
? When it is safe give assistance to any one on the water in distress.

B. Basic Terms of Sailing
Bow - the front of the boat.
Course - the direction the boat is being steered.
Falling off (bearing off, bearing away) - altering course away from the wind.
Gybing (Jibing) - turning the stern of the boat through the eye of the wind so that the sails swing from one side of the boat to the other.
Halyard - a line used to raise and lower a sail.
Heading Up (hardening up, coming up) - altering course towards the wind; tiller towards the main sail.
Heeling - the mast and boat lean toward (to windward) or away from (to leeward) the wind direction.
Irons - a condition in which the boat is pointing into the wind so that the sails cannot fill and the boat stalls for lack of propulsion.
JIFL - "just in from luffing," a way to trim the sails.
Leeward - describes the side of an object further from the wind.
Line - a rope.
Luffing - When the sail starts to flutter; the front edge of the sail will luff first.
Painter - the line attached to the boat used to tie it to the dock.
Points of sail - direction of wind relative to the position of the boat.
Port - the left side of the boat as viewed by an observer on board facing the bow.
Port Tack- the course one sails when the main sail is on the starboard side of the boat, wind on port side.
Reefing - reducing your sail area for more control in heavy winds.
Sheet - a line used to trim (pull in) and ease (let out) a sail.
Starboard - the right side of the boat as viewed by an observer on board facing the bow.
Starboard Tack - the course one sails when the main sail is on the port side of the boat, wind on port side.
Stern - the back of the boat.
Tacking - turning the bow of the boat through the eye of the wind so that the sails swing from one side of the boat to the other.
Windward - describes the side of an object closer to the wind.

C. Wind
Beginning sailors often find that their greatest challenge lies in getting familiar with the wind. You may never before have had any need to notice the wind, unless it was messing up your hair, or blowing freshly raked leaves around your yard. Yet it is essential for the sailboat skipper to be aware of the wind's direction and velocity. Sailors become adept at feeling the wind on their face and body. Try this. Choose an open place on the dock, close your eyes and locate the wind. See if you can feel the changes in its velocity and direction. Watch to windward for the dark patches on the water where fresh puffs of wind stir up small ripples. Look for other true wind indicators such as flags, smoke, cloud movement, windsocks or waves. Look at boats made fast to the dock by their bow painters, as they will tend to point into the wind. Soon you will learn to tell the wind direction by manipulating the sails on your boat. With practice, you will develop a constant awareness of where the wind is coming from.

We describe wind direction by stating where the wind is coming from. A westerly comes from the west and an easterly comes from the east. Similarly, if we say the wind is astern, we mean that it is striking the stern of the boat first. Sailors generally measure wind velocity in knots, or nautical miles per hour. One knot equals about 1.1 miles per hour. On Summer mornings the South Sailing Basin tends to have light winds of around 5 knots. By the afternoon, the heating of the Central Valley draws in cold air from the ocean, producing fifteen to twenty-five knots, a fairly stiff breeze. The wind is typically much lighter in the Winter, except during storms.

THE THREE BASIC ELEMENTS OF SAILING

Regardless of the type of sailing you choose to pursue, or the conditions under which you pursue it, mastering these three fundamental elements will facilitate your sailing and are applicable to any situation.

A. Balance
In order for your boat to sail as efficiently as possible, it must be balanced properly. When sailing dinghies like the C-15 (which have flat bottoms) a properly balanced boat should sit flat in the water. There are a few things that the skipper and crew must do to achieve this. They are:

a. As skipper, always sit forward of the tiller to avoid being stern heavy and to make steering easy. Also, sit opposite the sail so that you can see it and so that your weight will balance the force of the wind in the sails.

b. As crew, you must sit wherever necessary in order to keep the boat flat. Because the wind is dynamic and continually changing, your position in the boat may need to change frequently to meet the changing needs for balancing the boat.

c. Avoid heeling to either windward or leeward. Sailing with the mast perpendicular to the water is most efficient. On light wind days a slight heel to leeward will help induce the shape of the sail.

B. Helm
The helm of a boat refers to its steering, and in most cases is controlled with a tiller and an extension, which in turn move the rudder. Simply put, a boat will turn opposite the direction you push the tiller. While this concept may seem simple, its practice can prove challenging due to the awkward joint between the tiller and its extension. The best advice is to continue to practice until your muscles have memorized the movements. As a rule of thumb, lightly hold the tiller and don't think too much.

A final note: There will be moments when a novice sailor may feel overwhelmed at the helm, at these times more than any other, it is important to continue steering. Feel free to let go of any other controls, but never let go of your tiller!

C. Sail Trim
For now, as a reference point, remember the phrase Just In From Luffing. (JIFL). Just In From Luffing refers to the ideal position of the sail (regardless of boat course and the wind direction). Sails are trimmed with sheets by either pulling them in (sheeting in) or easing them (sheeting out). Knowing when to sheet in or out is based on your ability to recognize a luffing sail. A sail is said to be luffing when it shakes or quivers in the wind. A flag flapping in the breeze is an extreme example of luffing. On sailboats the luffing is subtler and recognizing it requires practice in order to become proficient. Finally, remember that sail-trim is constantly changing. What was proper trim one second may be completely wrong in another 10 seconds. With practice you will develop a sixth sense for sail and boat trim.

Points of Sail
A sailboat can go in any direction except straight into the wind and a few degrees on either side of that. Specifically, there is a zone of about forty-five degrees on either side of the wind (ninety degrees altogether) in which the sails will not fill. This zone is called irons. (no sail zone or no go zone). Pointing the boat in any other direction will allow the sails to fill, so that by manipulating the sheets properly, you can sail away.

The boat behaves differently as it sails in different directions relative to the wind. Thus it behooves the sailor to have names for these directions. Collectively these names are called the points of sail. While one can sail a boat without knowing these terms, one cannot talk about sailing without them. The next diagram shows all the points of sail.

Just outside of the irons zone, it becomes possible to fill the sails, and the boat will begin to move, provided the sails are hauled in close aboard. This point of sail is called, aptly, close hauled. A boat sailing straight away from the wind, or "dead down wind", is on a point of sail called a run, or a dead run. A boat sailing on any course in between running and close hauled is reaching.

There are three kinds of reach. When the wind strikes the boat perpendicular to its centerline, the boat is on a beam reach. Any boat sailing between a beam reach and close hauled is on a close reach, and any boat between a beam reach and a run is on a broad reach.

So generally, when you are sailing close to the wind, you are going upwind, and when you are sailing broad to the wind, you are sailing downwind.

STARBOARD TACK / PORT TACK

Notice that the diagram is symmetrical about the wind. For example, there are two beam reaches, one with the wind hitting the starboard side first, and one with the wind hitting the port side first. The former is called starboard tack, and the latter a port tack. This is how you talk about which direction you are sailing. Also, port and starboard tack have important implications for determining right of way, so pay attention!

All boats sailing are said to be on either a port tack or a starboard tack. These definitions are based solely on the position of the mainsail. A boat's tack is defined as being opposite of the side to which the mainsail sits. So with its mainsail to port, the boat is said to be on a starboard tack and visa-versa.

BOAT HANDLING

A. Tacking
Tacking is turning the boat so that the bow passes through the eye of the wind and the sails change sides. Tacking is an upwind turn. Here are some important things to remember.

a. Head up and sheet in before you tack. This will keep speed up.

b. Let the sail tell you when to change sides. Follow the boom, i.e. after the boom changes sides, you change sides. This will keep the boat balanced.

c. Hold on to both the tiller and the main sheet while you are changing sides. You will have more control over power and course.

d. Always communicate with your crew or skipper

skipper : "Ready to come about?!"

crew: "NOT READY!"

skipper: "Huh?"

skipper : "Ready to come about?!"

crew: "READY!"

skipper: " Helm's a lee!"

Tack safely and in control.

B. Jibing

Jibing is turning the boat so that the stern passes through the eye of the wind and the boat changes tack. The sails are guided by the skipper and crew to the opposite side. Jibing is a downwind turn. Here are some important things to remember.

a. Speed increases as you bear off downwind. So be in control of your steering. Don't forget to ease your sheets out as you bear away. An accidental jibe can cause a capsize.

b. Keep the boat balanced by centering your weight as you fall off to a dead run.

c. Switch your hands on the tiller before jibing. You can let go of the main sheet when you do this. This will prevent a scramble for the helm after the jibe.

d. After you have found a dead run, stay on that that course and guide the sail from one side of the boat to the other. Be certain that you control the movement of the sail from one side of the boat to the other! If the wind does it, you have lost control and are risking a capsize! An accidental jibe results when the wind switches the sail thus surprising a capsized and wet skipper and crew.

e. Never let go of the tiller while jibing. It may cause a capsize.

f. Always communicate with your crew or skipper:

skipper : "Ready to JIBE?!"

crew: "READY!"

skipper: " JIBE HO!"

C. DOCKING
The primary rule to remember when docking is that docking is done with respect to the wind, and not necessarily with respect to the dock. If you don't know the wind's direction, you can't come in to the dock safely.

Because boats have no brakes the challenge is to control your speed with your sail-trim. The ideal approach is one that allows you to accelerate and/ or slow your boat as needed without compromising your course. This is done by approaching on a close reach from the leeward side of the dock thus allowing you to both luff your sails (slowing), and fill them (power-up) as needed.

A close reach is found by easing the main sail out so that it luffs freely. The boom is neither over your head (in the center of the boat) nor is it pressed against the shrouds. This is also known as the safety position when the jib is also eased out and luffing.

Once you feel you have the necessary momentum to reach the dock, you should luff your sails completely so as to slow the boat completely. Developing the ability to find the appropriate course, and then gauging your speed to the dock takes time and will come with practice.

If you have some free sailing time, here is a good drill to help you. Find a buoy, and imagine that it is a dock. Make your approach just as you would a dock and try to make light contact.

You should remember these rules no matter where you are sailing. It is easy to get accustomed to our consistent westerly at the South Sailing Basin. Once in a while during the Spring and Fall the wind will blow from the east or the south; don't let this confuse you: always dock on the leeward side!

D. Sailing Upwind
We know that sailboats are limited in how close to the wind they can sail. The technique for sailing to a point directly upwind requires that you sail as close to the wind as possible (close hauled )tacking back and forth in a zig-zag pattern until you arrive at your destination. Learning to sail close hauled, while challenging, can be one of the most rewarding experiences in sailing. It differs from all other points of sail in two ways. First, it requires very specific steering; the difference between success and failure is subtle and can be a matter of just a few degrees. Second, unlike all other points of sail in which you first steer your course and then trim your sails, close hauled sailing is accomplished by first trimming your sails (all the way in - close hauled) and then steering your course. The challenge is to control the luffing of your sails by heading up (sailing closer to the wind) until the sails luff and falling off (sailing away from the wind) until the sails fill. This technique is called feathering. Concentrate on keeping the jib full and play the main to keep speed up. The keys to success include: small tiller movements, consistent sail-trim (particularly the jib), and quick responses to shifting wind and luffing sails.

SAFETY
That safety is important goes without saying. Common sense more than anything else will insure your safe enjoyment of this sport. Two items worth noting though: always wear a PFD (personal flotation device) when you are near water regardless of your swimming ability, and second, respect the outdoors and the Bay. To forgo either is foolish.

A. Right of Way Rules
Within sailing, there is a body of rules that come into play whenever two or more boats meet, racing or not racing. Here is a brief rundown of some of the most important rules:

* Avoid Collisions: Try to always follow the rules. However, avoid a collision, even if it means breaking the rules. Safety is the number one concern!!!

* Opposite Tacks: A port tack boat shall keep clear of a starboard
tack boat.

* Same Tack: A windward boat shall keep clear of a leeward boat. A boat clear astern shall keep clear of a boat clear ahead.

* Changing Tacks: A boat which is either tacking or jibing shall keep clear of a boat on a tack.

* Hierarchy of power: A disabled craft has the right of way over a human powered craft like a kayak which has the right of way over a wind powered craft which has the right of way over a motor driven craft. A boat that is restricted in its maneuverability, a boat in a channel or towing, has right of way over all vessels with greater maneuverability. Thus, a tanker or a tug towing a barge has very little maneuverability and also has a greater draft or vessel depth, thus restricted to a channel, so give them room!

A THOROUGH UNDERSTANDING OF THE BASIC RULES OF THE ROAD IS OF GREAT IMPORTANCE IN INCREASING YOUR CONFIDENCE AND SKILLS IN SAILING.

B. Capsizes
Capsizing is an inevitability of sailing small boats, and happens to the best sailors. Because you can expect to capsize with some frequency, it is an important goal of this class for you to become comfortable with capsizing. The first thing to talk about is preventing a capsize.

Capsize Prevention:
1) Hike out. Put your feet under the hiking straps and lean out and over the water.
2) Ease sheets. Let the main out a little.
3) Head up. Turn into the wind slightly.
** Use these in the order presented and in concert with each other. Avoid extreme reactions and try to stay in control.

Once Capsized:
1) Sailors should check that all crew are OK.
2) STAY WITH THE BOAT!! It will float, you may not. Consider it a large PFD.
3) Righting Procedure:

a. Before righting the boat it is important that no one be standing in the cockpit or on the mast. These positions can drive the mast into the shallow bottom threatening to bend or break it.

b. One person on the centerboard, pulling on the jib sheet so that the stopper knot is up against the fair lead, should lean out as far as possible being careful not to bounce on the centerboard.

c. The other crew should hold on the lower hiking strap. They should not exert any pressure that would work against the efforts of the person on the centerboard.

d. As the boat is righted they should be pulled into the boat. The person on the centerboard, if unable to get back into the boat as it comes up, should be assisted in over the transom. If conditions are rough, it is better to bring the person in over the windward side to avoid another capsize.

e. If for some reason the boat comes up without any one in it, the individual that is not on the windward side should get to the transom of the boat, grab on to the hiking strap, and work their way into the boat. Windier conditions will dictate that they climb in at the windward shroud. They should be encouraged to push the tiller to leeward. Once in, they can help the rest of the crew in to the boat.

Regaining control once the boat is upright is of great importance. If you do not regain composure quickly, the boat may soon capsize again. As the crew or skipper following capsize you should check that everyone on board is OK. Make sure that everyone is ready for more sailing. If you are cold or tired, come into the dock and take a breather.

C. Reefing
1. Make sure that mainsheet, boom vang and reef out haul (line under the boom that will pull new reef clew to aft end of boom) are free to run.
2. Raise sail until reef tack is 6-8 inches above the gooseneck. Cleat the halyard. Tighten the down haul. The luff of the sail should be tight with the new reef tack right at the boom's inboard end.
3. Pull the new clew to the boom end using the reefing outhaul. Pull tight!! The boom should be parallel to the water.
4. Roll up the sail and secure it to the boom with reef ties.
5. Adjust boom vang.

D. Heaving To
Heaving to is a method for stalling the boat on the water. It can be effective when you need to rest or need to make repairs etc. and you are not near a dock nor have an anchor.

1. Heaving to is accomplished by sheeting in the jib tight and cleating it.
2. Proceed with a slow tack easing your mainsail as the boat comes head-to-wind.
3. As the boat continues through its tack push the tiller to leeward slowly and secure it. Be careful not to accidentally tack back.
4. Finally, be aware of hazards to leeward. A boat that has heaved to will continue to move through the water.

E. Crew Overboard ( COB )
Occasionally when sailing, crew (or skipper) can be lost overboard, and although unlikely, if and when it does happen you will be grateful to have this skill. Many techniques exist for recovering people overboard. We teach a method similar to docking so as to reinforce the two skills.

Having lost someone overboard on any vessel you should:
1. Throw flotation toward the person (if available).
2. Yell, "CREW OVERBOARD!"
3. Assign a spotter to maintain the person in sight at all times.

The maneuver:
1. Sail away from the person on a beam reach or a low close reach a    distance of 6-8 boat-lengths, or if your skills permit, as short a     distance as possible to complete the entire maneuver.
2. Tack and continue to fall off on to a broad reach 2-3 Boat-lengths.
3. You are now in a position to proceed on a close reach course to     the person in the water, controlling your speed and approaching     as you would in a docking situation. The goal is to stop your     boat on the leeward side of the person overboard.
4.         Try not to go in irons, stalling your boat before reaching COB.
5. When picking them up out of the water, do so from the      windward side of the boat so as to avoid capsizing.

F. Hypothermia
Hypothermia is a condition during which the body has lost its ability to maintain its core temperature (i.e. you are getting too cold). The effect is to slowly shut-off the body's various systems and left untreated can lead to death. What makes it particularly tricky is that it often goes undetected by the victim because judgment and coordination are among the body functions that slip away.

Treat a victim of hypothermia by warming them up slowly to avoid shocking their system. If dressed in wet clothing, disrobe and dry them. Blankets and external heat sources are useful. Be careful if using a warm bath or shower to use warm water, and under no circumstances should they be given alcohol or caffeine. Additionally, don't rub them to warm them, nor should you raise their extremities, each of these tend to circulate the cold blood from the extremities to the core.

The best advice is to be aware of the risk and to dress accordingly. Always over dress and wear layers. Avoid cotton. Once wet cotton does not serve to keep one warm. In fact, it will cause cooling to happen quicker than wool, synthetics or even bare skin. Wet suits are provided at Cal Adventures and we encourage you to use them. During summer afternoon conditions, you (and your guests) are required to wear them.

ADDITIONAL TOPICS

A. SAILING IN STRONG WIND AND BIG WAVES

Waves are created by the wind's friction on the surface of the water. The amount of time the wind blows and the greater the fetch (the distance the wind travels over the water) determines the frequency and steepness or height of the waves. Strong wind and big waves go hand in hand. Here at the South Sailing Basin, (a straight 8 mile shot from the Golden Gate) the waves get quite large. Sailing on them is challenging. When renting, be dressed properly and make sure that your sail is reefed and your crew overboard and capsize skills are sharp before venturing out into the waves on a windy day.

Sailing upwind on waves:

Because waves travel from the same direction the wind blows, their energy works against your efforts in sailing upwind into them. As a result you must compensate being knocked down by the waves by:

1) sailing close hauled and heading up on the face of a wave as the boat is lifted to the top of the wave then,

2) falling off slightly over the back of the wave as the boat drops down into the trough of the wave.

Heading up combats the tendency of the boat to be pushed sideways by the energy of the wave. Falling off prevents the bow from falling into the trough once the wave passes underneath the boat.

These are a subtle maneuvers that vary with each wave. Larger waves require more extreme reactions and smaller waves require less or even no reactions. Also make sure that your centerboard is all the way down. This provides lateral resistance and lift that help the boat sail to windward.

Sail trim and balance are also important to successful wave sailing. Play the sails. Keep them full and do not let them luff. Luffing causes the boat to slow down and thus allows the waves to have their way with you. Keep the boat balanced and flat always. A balanced boat is a fast boat.

When tacking in waves, try to tack as quickly as possible on the top of the wave. This will allow you to head up into the wave, tack and fall off down the back side of the wave. It keeps the boat on the water and balanced. If one presents itself, tack on a flat spot of water. Wave judgment and timing wont be as important.

Sailing downwind on waves:

Sailing downwind on the waves can be exhilarating and dangerous. The energy of the wave works with the wind in moving the boat and thus the boat travels faster. The waves also move faster than the boat passing underneath the boat causing the boat to pitch fore and aft, roll side to side and yaw back and forth. These three movements pitch, roll and yaw work against the balance of the boat and may cause a capsize. Your goal is to minimize these effects.

Minimize pitching by sailing a broad reach at an angle downwind across the waves. This will enable you to keep your sails full and your speed up. It also allows you to look aft at the waves approaching so that you can, as the stern is lifted, fall off and surf downwind in front of and on the face of the wave. Wow!

Minimize rolling by ensuring that you indeed fall off as the stern is lifted by the approaching wave. While surfing, try to steer a course that is perpendicular to the wave face. Beware of an accidental jibe. Waves have been known to cause a boat to spin out of control, jibe and capsize especially when the boat is on a dead run.

Minimize yaw, the tendency for the stern of the boat to slide sideways around a pivot point, by raising the center board half way as soon you fall off to a broad reach. When the centerboard is half way up, its length points toward the back of the boat. This, in turn, prevents the boat from spinning around the pivot point of the centerboard when it is all the way down. This also reduces drag because the centerboard is not extending as deeply into the water allowing the boat to go faster. Raising the centerboard will also allow you to jibe on waves with more control and safety.

Jibing on waves can be dangerous if not done in control. If at any time you are not feeling in control while sailing down wind in waves, avoid jibing and tack.

If, however, jibing is no problem, remember these things: 1) Pull the center board half way up. 2) Go back to basics and jibe like you were taught from the beginning (see "Jibing"). 3) Jibe, if possible, while surfing. The wave will be carrying you, speed will be up and the sail will come over easily. 4) Minimize the time spent on a dead run.

B. PHYSICS OF SAILING

Apparent wind
The apparent wind is the wind that you feel as the boat is moving. It has two basic components: The true wind and the induced wind.

True wind is the wind you feel when standing still. It is the wind that blows flags on buildings and makes waves on water. An anemometer on land measures the speed of the true wind.

Induced wind is the wind created by a moving object and it is felt by a person on or in that object. The dog with his head hanging out of the car window feels the induced wind with a velocity equal to the speed of the car: provided, of course, that the true wind is zero.

Thus, with a true wind of five knots and an induced wind of five knots, a person traveling on a bike, directly into the direction of the true wind, will feel an apparent wind of ten knots. If the bike is then turned around to the opposite direction, traveling with the true wind at the same speed of five knots, the apparent wind perceived would be zero knots. This is why it feels as if the wind has died or eased when you sail downwind.

This applies to sailing as well. In general, as you point your boat higher into the breeze, the apparent wind increases. As you fall off to lower points of sail, the apparent wind decreases. When running, apparent wind is least making jibes easy. When close hauled, apparent wind is greatest causing the need for the crew and skipper to hike out to keep the boat balanced against the weight of the apparent wind in the sails.

Neutral helm, Weather helm, Lee helm
You know that you must position your weight so that the boat is balanced and sailing flat on the water . Balance is also important in terms of sail trim and fine tuning. In order for the boat to sail well with neutral helm, the boat's rigging and centerboard must be coordinated so that the skipper feels no tendency for the boat to turn or pressure on the tiller, when sailing a straight course with proper weight distribution and sail trim. This is neutral helm. Theoretically, the skipper may let go of the tiller and the boat will continue to steer a straight course. Everything is balanced.

Weather helm is the tendency for the boat to turn into the wind on its own with the tiller amidships. It occurs most often when the boat heels to leeward and when the rigging is not tuned or balanced properly. The skipper must compensate by steering a course that corrects for the turning to windward. This is done by steering a course that would normally turn the boat to leeward, in essence causing the boat to sail a straight course. However, it puts unnecessary pressure on the rudder and causes the boat to sail slower. Weather helm is most noticeable on larger boats but it can often be felt on our C-15's.

Lee helm is the opposite of weather helm. It is a tendency for the boat to turn downwind when the tiller is put amidships. It is most often caused by a jib that is too large for the wind conditions. It is best remedied by putting up a smaller jib or head sail.

In any case, balance on all fronts ( sail trim, weight distribution, and centerboard trim) is of primary importance for efficient sailing.

CE and CLR
CE or center of effort, refers to the focal point of the force of the wind in the sails. The main and jib, working together, will have a center of effort somewhere between the middle of each sail.

CLR or center of lateral resistance refers to the focal point of the force of the water working against the centerboard.

In order for the boat to sail efficiently with neutral helm, the CE and CLR must be in line with one another (CE above the water and CLR below the water). This is best accomplished with proper weight distribution, sail trim and centerboard adjustment.

The CE can be shifted aft (sailing with a main sail only) or it can be shifted forward (sailing with a jib that is too large). When it is shifted aft, adjust the centerboard to the up position so as to align the CE and CLR and to minimize weather helm. When shifted forward, change or lower the jib to avoid lee helm.

Sailing without a rudder
Sailing without a rudder can be accomplished with the understanding that by inducing weather and lee helm, the boat will turn upwind or downwind. By inducing neutral helm, the boat will steer a straight course.

Before attempting to sail without a rudder, raise the centerboard half way. This will prevent the boat from spinning out of control around the axis or pivot point of the fully lowered centerboard.

Weather and lee helm can be induced in two basic ways. 1) Shift CE forward or aft by using the main and jib independently. Sheet in the main and ease the jib to head up (CE aft). Ease the main and sheet in the jib to fall off (CE forward). 2) Heel the boat to leeward to turn upwind. Heel the boat to windward to turn down wind.

As the boat displaces the water, heeling either to leeward or to windward will induce weather or lee helm. The friction of the water on the hull causes the hull to travel slower than the rigging above and thus causes the boat to turn away from the direction of the heeling. Use this in combination with sail adjustment to steer and turn your boat.

Remember adjustment of your weight and sails initiates turns. After the turns begin, you must counter with the opposite maneuvers to keep from spinning out of control. Neutral helm is accomplished by striking a balance between the main, the jib and your weight distribution.

Mastering sailing without a rudder takes a lot of practice. Always get approval from the Rec. Supervisor before you attempt it. Never attempt it near the rocks or on days that are too windy to get the rudder back in the gudgeons. Otherwise, once you get the feel for it, you will have a much greater understanding of balanced sailing and the interactions between the wind, the sails and your weight.

OPPORTUNITIES AFTER BASIC SAILING

At the UCAC, there are a variety of options. Most people choose to continue on and take our Intermediate sailing class. Our Intermediate class gives you the chance to reinforce what you have learned in Basic. We expose the sailor to a variety of conditions and will also cover some new material, mainly regarding safety and seamanship.

After the Intermediate class, most students are eligible to to take our written test and buy a recreational sailing pass, which enables one to sail alone or with a guest. It costs $100 and is good for a period of two months from the day of purchase. You may also rent for $12 per hour.

Upon completion of Intermediate, a wind rating of under or over 15 knots will be given. Please adhere to your rating and sail in conditions that are appropriate for your skill level. This is for your safety.

Some students go on to join our racing class where you may test your sailing skills against other students and sometimes an instructor or two. Racing happens twice: during the Summer and early Fall. Whatever you choose, we hope you enjoy our sailing program.

Cal Adventures also offers a variety of other outdoor and aquatic classes and activities. At the UCAC, we also offer basic and advanced classes and trips in sea kayaking, windsurfing and rowing. Private lessons in all activities are available at $40 per hour.

From our office location on the U.C. Berkeley campus, we offer camping equipment rentals as well as classes and trips in backpacking, rock climbing, wilderness first aid, white water rafting.

During the Spring and Summer, Cal Adventures offers youth programs in all of the above activities.

If you have questions, please call our office at 510-642-4000

UCAC HOURS:
Mon.     CLOSED
Tues. /Thurs.    7-10am
Wed.-Sun.     12pm-sunset

During the winter, we are open Fridays, Noon to Sunset, and Weekends 7AM -Sunset.